Taking part in a walking safari in the Shamwari Game Reserve you don't just see the animals - you smell them up close and hear them breathe while tracking minute details or, in the case of elephant, much more obvious signs showing the way. Being in nature surrounded by the real thing, you feel small and yet more powerfully and exhilaratingly alive than ever before.
The Shamwari Explorer Camp, just 70 km east of Port Elizabeth, offers a true African experience where you have the freedom to explore the African bush and plains with expert guides on foot, while staying in a tented open bush camp in the middle of the stunning 25 000ha game reserve.
Departing in our 4x4 from Long Lee Manor Lodge in Shamwari for our camp site, it was not until we were virtually on top of the camp before we realised we had reached our home for the next two nights. Hidden between African bush and giant basalt and granite rocks in the middle of a vast plateau, Explorer Camp boasts a stunning wooden deck, an open lapa, four tents, an open air hot shower and, wait for it, a flush toilet. Hooray! The camp is extremely comfortable, without ever letting you forget that you are in, and part of nature. It caters for groups of six (two per tent), as the fourth is for the guides who also act as guards, chefs, companions and walking encyclopaedias every second of the night and day.
There is nothing feigned or touristy about Explorer Camp. It is for the person who loves nature and who wants to experience Africa and the bush the way it should be experienced - walking in the wild during the day and at night sitting around the fire with friends taking in the night sounds with a full tummy and your choice of drink at hand. (A real African safari - Livingston style, but with a shower and toilet.)
I have never been so close to wild animals (except those sad ones in zoos) and it is something everyone should experience at least once in a lifetime. On foot we came within seven metres from a pair of (luckily) very satisfied, fully grown cheetah brothers; within 50 metres from a group of rhino; and much closer to antelope, zebra, giraffe and hundreds of birds. It was only the warthog that time and again made straight for cover, antenna in the air, not withstanding our quiet upwind approach. Safety comes first and the guides know exactly how to approach the animals without causing alarm. In the open, the guide's word is law and you obey without any qualms.
But, having said that, what makes the walking safari at Shamwari extra unique is that the weekend is planned by the group of guests themselves. Should you feel that one walk a day is sufficient and you would prefer to do a trip by vehicle - no problem. The explorer camp experience is tailor-made to suit your needs and the guides are flexible. You can return to camp to eat on deck or you can picnic on the open planes in the shade of a lonesome tree.
The walking safari experience starts on a Friday and guests have to be at the lodge for lunch at noon. After a delectable meal you leave for camp by vehicle and after many more great meals at camp and awesome sights and sounds on foot (and the odd game drive), Sunday afternoon arrives all too soon and it's time to pack your rucksack and say goodbye. You can however spoil yourself and arrange to stay the Sunday night as well.
Unfortunately our group had to go, but on the way out we were lucky enough to spot two lionesses with six cubs - this time, thankfully, not on foot.
Central Reservations
Tel: +27 (0)41 509 3000
www.shamwari.com
Breathtaking sunsets make for a photographer’s dream.
ARTICLE AND PHOTOS: ILSE SCHOONRAAD, GEORGE HERALD EDITOR